Restaurant Knystaforsen
In the tranquil beauty of small Hyltebruk, Sweden lies a little place called Knystaforsen that transcends the typical dining experience, offering something truly unique. It’s a tribute to the Scandinavian wilderness, the art of open-fire cooking and a place where guests are treated like family. The restaurant – meanwhile awarded with a Michelin star, a Michelin Green star and two knives for the Best Chef Award in the World 2024 – is located in an old sawmill surrounded by pristine forests. This is one of those places that nourishes my soul and a place that feels like home.
Chef Nicolai Tram started a new life in 2017 with his wife Eva and their two children. Nature, as a source of inspiration, has led the new phase of this Danish chef who has found his means of expression in fire. City life became trivial and they felt a deep desire to live in nature, so they moved from Denmark to Sweden, in the middle of the countryside. This bucolic lifestyle of the Tram family now included daily foraging, natural cooking in the outdoors over the open fire, establishing connections with the local ecosystem and producers of Halland in Sweden. All of this inevitably led Nicolai to the idea of wrapping it all up into a gastronomic offering.
Knystaforsen sits in a delightful spot by the by a rippling river and woodland, with its panoramic windows meaning you can dine with a view. The restaurant offers something quirky and unique to its diners, with nature at every turn. Not only is there the secluded setting, but the superb ingredients are all from the local area and traditional wood-fired cooking adds a smoky edge to the ingredients.
Despite the sophistication of the food, Knystaforsen remains a casual and relaxed place. This informal approach to hospitality is a key part of what makes dining at Knystaforsen so special to me. It’s a place where you can unwind, enjoy great food, and connect with the people and the nature around you. Guests have also the option of staying the night in one of restaurant’s overnight accommodations.
Fire, as a tool, is one of Chef Nicolai’s specialties. The philosophy is that eating over an open fire is the original and simplest way for humans to connect food with nature. The element of fire represents Knystaforsen and has become an iconic centerpiece of the gastronomic experience.
Chef Nicolai and Sommelier Eva Tram create a terroir-inspired tasting menu, expertly prepared over an open flame. One course is even served outside around the campfire. The culinary experience extends to a wine pairing of exclusively Swedish wines, allowing guests to fully immerse themselves in the flavors of the region.
An essential dish from the woodland features seasonal moss, usually eaten by reindeer. Cleaned, dried, and fried, it is served with an emulsion of smoked oil, moose tartare, horseradish, and pickled pine shoots.
Another dish involves leeks roasted over the open fire. The leeks are kept whole on a bed of warm embers; the cooking process leaves them charred on the outside, while the inside is naturally steamed in its own juices, giving a deliciously soft heart. It is served with buttermilk, dill oil, and seasoned with the ashes of the leek.
On the menu, there are also grilled duck hearts with onion jam. The onion is prepared using the same technique as the leeks. Once the delicious soft center has developed, salted ramson buds are added, giving a flavor similar to that of capers. The dish is finished with a pheasant sauce and the ashes from the hay burned during the cooking process. These ashes are full of nitrites, which bring a salty, herbal smokiness to the dish.
Finally, the chocolate fondant is made from deer blood combined with rye flour, beer, and honey. Crumbled burned hay and charred apple puree make a delicious finishing touch to the dish.
Rydöforsvägen 4, Rydöbruk, 31442, Sweden
By Marco Louter,
Food and Travel Journalist